(That Always Seem to Work for Me! ボクにはいつもうまく行くようだ!) by Malachi Rhyker ヒメマス釣りの21の秘訣
Kokanee Salmon are a type of land-locked Sockeye Salmon that was trapped in a lake or small stream sometime around 15,000 years ago. The North Western Americas are covered with lakes filled with Kokanee. They taste great and are fun to fight, so it’s no wonder that they are one of the most popular fish to target in Idaho, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, and in British Columbia.
Kokanee are aggressive fish, a factor that has to be taken into consideration when trying to target them. I have been fishing for Kokanee for a few years now, and I have a few tips that I would love to pass onto new anglers trying to catch a few.
Kokanee trolling can rarely be done without a dodger or two on your lines. The dodgers reflect sunlight towards the fish and attract the fish towards the boat. By bending the dodger a little in the middle, you are able to give the dodger action of its own. It will be able to swing back and forth and get the kokanee to come closer.
A hoochie is a very effective Kokanee lure, and there isn’t much reason why. The Kokanee seem to love hitting the little plastic limbs/ tentacles that are on hoochies. And because the hook is right in the middle of the limbs, the kokanee are usually hooked pretty well.
Having multiple lines in the water will make it seem like that your hooks and dodgers are a school of fish. The Kokanee Salmon will follow your ‘school’ around until they get irritated enough to strike out.
Kokanee are zooplankton feeders, so it is a mystery why the fish love to bite Kokanee. There isn’t much rhyme or reason to why, but because it works, corn is used very often. Regular white shoepeg full kernel corn can be used, and the cheaper, the better.
ヒメマスは動物性プランクトン給餌者であり、なぜ魚がヒメマスに食いつきたがるか?はミステリーだ。それは何故か?について訳も理由もない。これはドジャーとタコベイトは効果があるので、コーンは稀にしか使われない。Regular white shoepeg full kernel コーンが使われる。安ければ安いほど、より良い。
The corn is the correct size, but the real reason that the corn is used is because it can retain smells very well. The real tip here is soaking the corn in another substance and getting a strong foreign smell that will irritate the Kokanee down to the fish.
Experiment wiht different smells, but be sure to use garlic for at least some of your corn. The Kokanee don’t really like the smell of garlic. It’s too strong for them, and it doesn’t smell like anything else around them. Because of this, the Kokanee will become aggressive towards the corn.
これと違った臭いを使った実験として、少なくともコーンにニンニクを使え。実際にヒメマスはニンニクの臭いが好きでない。あまりにも臭いが強くて、彼らの周辺のどの臭いとも違う。これが理由で、ヒメマスはコーンに攻撃的になる。
3. Downrigger
ダウンリガー
A downrigger is the piece of equipment that will be able to get the line down deep into the depths of the lake. There is a very heavy weight connected to the boat that will drop straight down. There is another little piece connected to the weight that can be clipped to the line. This will take your line down to the depth and keep the lures running around that point.
When the fish bites your hook, the line pops off of the weight and is able to be freely reeled up. The weight can be brought back up and the line reattached. The process repeats itself but keeps everything very constant.
Downriggers have only one downside. They are expensive to buy. They run for around $500, but can get up to $1200. There is an easy solution to not having one, though.
Attaching a 1.5 oz weight to the line will allow the line and lure to get as deep as you want the line to go. Using a regular salmon weight can also get the line down deep as well. Just attach it just before the dodger and the leader. The weight will add more weight when trying to reel in a fish, so the fish will seem bigger than it actually will.
Another alternative is using a weighted line. A weighted line is a line with a lead core that is covered in, usually, a braided line or a different material. This keeps the line sensitive, but because of the lead, the line will sink and will be able to act as a downrigger and get the line deep enough.
代替は重いラインを使うことだ。重いラインとは、普通、鉛を網糸か他の材質で被覆したラインのことである。ラインの感度は維持されるが、鉛なのでラインは沈み、ダウンリガーの役目もし十分深く沈下する。
When fighing a fish, the line will add more weight and it will be more dificult to get the fish up to the boat. While this seems line a downside, I actually enjoy the challenge to get the fish up. Especially with their soft mouths, it is a challence to get the fish up without tearing their mouths.
魚とファイトするとき、ラインは重さを増すので、ボートに魚を巻き上げるのがより難しくなる。ここでラインがダウンリガーのように見えるけど、実際には魚を上げることを楽しむことができる。特に口の柔らかい魚に対して、口を切らないように釣り上げることはチャレンジングだ。
5. Reel in Slowly
ゆっくりリールを巻け
Kokanee Salmon have very soft mouths. And because of this, there is always the worry that the hook set and reeling in can rip the hook out of the Kokanee Salmon. Make sure that as you reel in, or think that you might have a Kokanee Salmon on the other side of the line, that you set carefully and not too violently, and that you reel in gently.
But be careful: not enough tension will allow the fish to be able to get away and twist out of the hook. The tension will allow you the control you will need to get the Kokanee towards the boat.
Anyways, its more fun to slowly reel in a fish than just cranking in until you get one on the boat. Because these fish take a little more finesse to get them to the boat, they are very fun to fight.
Another easy way to reduce the amount of stress put on the Kokanee’s mouth is by using Monofilament fishing line. Mono line, as it is very regularly called, is made of a semi-clear material that has the most stretch out of all types of lines. As the name implies, it is made out of one material and is very durable because of this. The clear color makes it a good choice for a fishing line.
The stretch it has is just enough to still be very sensitive but also has enough give that it will stretch as the hook sets. This helps as the fish is started to be dragged along behind the boat. The give will allow the hook to be set gentler and the hook not pulled out as the boat continues and the fish starts to fight.
Because Kokanee Salmon have very soft mouths, when they jump out of the water, they might become unhooked and get away. If you can get the Kokanee to the surface, there is always the chance that the Kokanee will be able to get off the hook.
Having the net right there ready will help to get the Kokanee Salmon into the boat and not let them get away. This will also help with making sure that they Kokanee don’t try to get under the boat or to somewhere that the line can break or get tangled.
A longer net is usually. You will be able to get the fish further from the boat. While that can be both a good and a bad idea, it will be beneficial if the Kokanee has less time to get off the hook. Make sure the mouth of the net is wide as well. This will make scooping the fish up easier and make it more certain that the fish won’t get away.
Another great mystery of fishing is why Kokanee hate pink. It is a known fact that Kokanee strike things that annoy them, and pink is the color that has got the most success, so Kokanee anglers use it frequently.
The best lures for Kokanee are usually pink and imitate bait fish. There are also many Kokanee baits that are purposely dyed pink because the color is just so successful. A pink hoochie lure with a piece of scented corn will catch the most amount of fish in an average year.
Although pink is the best color, some anglers don’t use it as often as other people. They use reds, oranges, and some light purples. I’ve talked to a few anglers on the water, and although they swear by pink, they are usually using an orange or red. Not sure why, but I guess experimenting is sometimes good. Who would have thought.
When trolling for Kokanee, don’t change the type of gear that you’re using. It’s good to use a variety of lures, but try to make it a rule of thumb to keep each rod consistent with the type of lure that is used on it. This will make things easier, because a hoochie set up is slightly different than a spoon setup or a different kind of lure.
Instead, change the color of the lure. If you’re using a pink wedding ring, switch to a red wedding ring, or change the color of the blade that circles the lure. Sometimes bronze will work better where silver or nickel fails.
Changing lures is less effective because the hoochies work the best. It’s as simple as that. There is also the option of using different baits. Instead of corn, try dyed-pink shrimp, or dyed-red maggots. Colors matter more.
Kokanee Salmon like deep water. Because of this, they are usually not that close to the shore. Try around 50 feet away from the shore when trolling. If you aren’t getting any bites, go deeper than you had been trolling.
After changing the depth, change how far out you troll. Sometimes moving a few more feet out into the water will be enough to get the fish to start biting. Keep on getting trolling at varying distances and depths until you get one that works well. If there are other people on the lake trolling, try trolling the same distances as them. If they seem friendly enough, ask them, but be sure not to fish where they are. It’s very annoying.
If you’re having more troubles catching Kokanee, go to your locat fish shop and ask people there if they know where the Kokanee Salmon hang out at. Its different at every lake.
Because Kokanee Salmon usually group together in a school, having access to a fish finder will be very valuable to your fishing experience. The sonar-using device will be able to find the fish easier than solo fish. Once you know the location of the school of fish, troll over that area a few times.
ヒメマスはグループになって回遊しているので、魚探は君の経験に非常に価値がある。
A fish finder can also be helpful in finding out how deep the water is in a certain area. One of my friends uses his fishing boat to pull his kids around on water skiis. He uses the fish finder to tell if its deep enough to let them ski safely. If you can use it for multiple things, that can make the purchase even more worth it.
A fish finder can get kind of expensive, but they are very worth the price. Find one online for a reasonable price. Amazon sometimes has surprise deals on fishing supplies, so check back regurlary on Amazon.com.
Because Kokanee group up in schools, troll a little faster over the areas that you spotted a school with your fish finder. This will make them more aggressive and more likely to strike.
Kokanee Salmon school up because it gives them a sense of protection, but this actually will make them safer. Kokanee are sought after by many fish-eating species of fish.
Because they are so skittish if a faster lure comes by a lone fish, they will get spooked and will swim away from it, rather than striking. Because of this, more fish will be aggressive and will be more likely to bite the hooks.
Many trolling guides and anglers tend to go for the sharp turns that will lower one side of the boat and lift the other. If you have lines on each side, one of your lines will be lifted and the other will be dropped. While this is a good method of fishing, there is an even better way of trolling.
Traveling in the pattern called “Serpentine” will get you the best results. By going back and forth, the lines will both be dropped and lifted quite frequently. This can get you seasick, with this movement, but the fish will probably bite frequently enough that you will be able to get a rest in between.
The ‘S’ shaped path will turn more fish towards the boat as the dodgers will be able to reflect more light in more directions. This will also make your artificial school of fish seem more like a school of fish trying to swim away from a predator.
Keeping a constant speed can quickly become the downfall of your trolling experience. The fish will not be interested in a lure that has one set action. By changing the speeds at which you go, the lure and dodger will have a variety of actions that will attract the fish.
When I go trolling on the lakes, I usually change the speed in a range of about 1 MPH. This is a pretty big range, and it doesn’t have to be so dramatic with your experience. I usually start around 1.5 MPH and make my way up to 1.8 MPH. if I don’t have that much luck, I slow down again until I catch something, or I’m going 0.8 MPH.
The speeding up of the boat, consequently, will increase the speed of the lures on the boat. By going slower, the lures will slow down and not travel as fast. Kokanee strike when the lure is falling, so when the boat slows down enough, the kokanee will strike more often.
One of the quickest ways that your fishing trip can go down the drain is with tangled lines. Sometimes its unaviodable. The fish fights towads another line and snags it before you have time to get the other rod out of the way, or you just didn’t notice.
あなたの釣り旅行がうまく行かなくなる(down the drain)手っ取り早い(quichest way)方法の1つが、糸の絡みである。これはときどき避けられない。魚がもう1本のラインに向かってファイトし、ロッドを除く時間が無かったり気が付く前だったりして、ラインが引っかかってしまう。
One of the most common ways that a fishing line can be entangled with another is because of the wind blowing the lines into each other. When trolling, make sure never to go sideways into the wind, else you risk getting the lines messed up.
Making sure that you always travel with or against the wind will help with keeping your lines untangled and ready to twitch if a fish strikes. The wind can be a great hinderance to fishermen, but there are easy ways to get around the wind’s bothersome personality.
When trolling or jigging for Kokanee, the action of the lure is very important. If the lure or bait is not properly presented to the fish, the fish may very well ignore the hook completely. The most important action that the Kokanee are most likely to bite is when the lure is falling.
When talking about jigging, this is a very good thing to hear. The jig is usually falling, so there is a lot of opportunities to present a falling hook and bait to the Kokanee Salmon. Jerking the jig up slightly and letting it fall back down will both make the lure seem alive and get the action that you will want.
For trolling, making the lure fall isn’t always easy. But it is possible. The lure does drop a little when the boat turns in its path. It drops significantl when doing a very sharp turn, such as a U-turn.
Kokanee are most likely in a school with a few other fish. Because of this, the fish are going to be more aggressive. They are going to bite, so now the goal is to get the bigger fish to bite first.
One tactic to do this is to troll deeper. The bigger Kokes are going to be deeper in the water. They can survive here because the other species that try to prey on Kokanee will not be able to kill them or eat them.
But this tip is about how fast you’re traveling. The bigger Kokanee are going to be able to swim a little faster than the smaller Kokanee. This means that you can troll faster than you originally thought you could. Instead of trolling around 1.5 mph, go for a little faster. 1.8 or almost 2 mph .
This will help you catch bigger Kokanee, which are more fun to fight, and more meat to eat.
これはファイトが楽しく、美味しい大型のヒメマスを釣るのに役に立つ。
18. Line Counter Reel
カウンター付リール
A counter reel is a device that can accurately tell you how much fishing line you have let out of your reel. This is very helpful for trolling and jigging, the two main methods used to catch Kokanee. If you pair that with a fish finder, you will be able to know exactly how deep you will have to drop the line, and you will be able to get the line down exactly down that far.
For trolling, the drag the water has on the line will have to be taken into consideration. There are a lot of things online that can tell you how deep the line will go depending on the weights you have on the line, the type of line, and how fast you are going.
Jigging for Kokanee Salmon is best done on the bottom of the lake and worked up to the surface. It’s not always a good thing to let your hook touch the bottom of the lake, so paired with a line counter and a fish finder, the line counter reel can be a very useful tool.
Kokanee Salmon are land locked, so they are stuck in the lakes. They can be caught year round, so get out to your lakes! In the winter, you can go ice fishing. While this adds more expenses with more needed equipment, you’ll be able to use that equipment for any type of ice fishing.
During the late spring and early summer months, go jigging and try your luck with dropping jigs on Kokanee Salmon schools you find with your fish finder. Once the Kokanee start going deeper in the later summer and early fall, try your luck trolling for the fish.
In any kind of Kokanee Salmon fishing, this applies very strongly.
ヒメマス釣りのような場合、これがうまく適用できる。
Trolling– If you have five lines out, have one at the recommended depth and distance behind the boat. For the other four, change it up in increments of 10. One 10 feet deeper, one 10 feet shallower, one ten feet further back, and the last 20 feet further back from the original.
Jigging – In jigging, you have one rod that is action-focused, and another suspended in the water with bait. Jig starting at the bottom, but once you have a depth that works well, drop another line down at that depth and let it sit and be bit.
Ice fishing – When Ice fishing, its a good idea to have as many holes as you can, and to space them out every 10 or so feet perpendicular from the shore. The first should be about 10 feet under the ice, and the next four down another 10 feet than the last. If the lake is shallower, put the rest a few feet above the bottom of the lake.
A lot of the Kokanee Salmon require a few specific pieces of equipment to be most effectively caught. Even if it is just a boat, it’s really good to have. Actually, especially if its a boat.
For trolling, and although it isn’t exactly required, a downrigger would be a very good sale. Consider buying quite a bit of leaded fishing line, and also a few weights. There are small salmon downrigger clips that can be easily attached to a line and will get the hook down to the correct depth.
Another piece of tech that would be very useful would be a fish finder. The ability to see the bottom of the lake would be amazing to have. The fish finder isn’t a bad purchase because of how useful it can be. It can help out with jigging and with ice fishing.
Is Kokanee a salmon or trout? Kokanee Salmon is actually land locked Sockeye Salmon, an ocean and river species. They tend to be smaller than Sockeye Salmon, and they act more like trouts, but they do not breed with either. Kokanee Salmon are considered a separate species than Sockeye Salmon.
What do Kokanee Salmon like to eat? Kokanee Salmon are strictly zooplankton eaters. Despite constantly biting lures, Zooplankton, very small organisms floating in the water, is their only source of food. Many types of fish eat Kokanee, though. Kokanee Salmon are also known to eat very small insects, but that is a lot less common. Kokanee Salmon have gill rakers that make eating other things harder.
We all know how useful a fish finder can be when it comes to fishing. Despite the fact that this device is becoming more popular, not many people know how to use it properly. Thus, in this piece of writing, you will find out a complete beginner walkthrough on how to read a fish finder. Even if you have not owned a fish finder for yourself, knowing how to read it is still necessary. It helps you to get familiar and manipulate your device faster when you buy it in the future.
1. How To Read a Fish Finder in 5 Steps
5ステップで魚探画面を読む方法
The first must-know thing when reading the fish finder is the mechanism of sonar. The transducer in your fish finder emits the sonar waves. These waves bounce and return to the transducer. The transducer will then interpret the data showing you the depth, speed, distance, and frequency at which the waves come back. Based on these raw data, you can tell where the fishes are.
魚探を読むとき、まず知っておかなければならないことはソナー(超音波探知機)の原理だ。魚探のtransducer(送受波器、振動子)は超音波を発信している。超音波は反射して送受波器に戻ってくる。 送受波器は、超音波が戻ってきた地点の水深、速度、距離、そして周波数に関するデータを解釈している。この生データに基づいて、どこに魚群があるかを知ることができる。
Depth finder(水深探査)
With this feature, you will know how deep is it from your vessel to the bottom of the lake. This number is normally shown on the left on the screen. And more than often you will see it in meter unit instead of feet.
Some types of fish prefer warm water, some others prefer cold. You will see the temperature right below the depth. Just using these two features is sometimes enough for looking for fishes.
When they sonar waves return to the transducer, you can choose to see the raw data or make it more understandable by seeing them in icons. And people call it the Fish ID technology. Specifically, you will see the fish icons of different sizes. The size, of course, tells you how big or how small the fish is. When you turn off the Fish ID feature, you will then see the arches.
A longer arch does not mean a bigger fish. Long arches tell you that the fish beneath is small and stationary or slowly moving.
長いアークが大きな魚ではない。長いアークは船の下に小さな魚がいて、一定かゆっくり移動していることを示している。
Arch width(アークの太さ)
The wider the arch is, the bigger the fish seems to be. In other words, think vertically, not horizontally.
アークが太ければ太いほど、魚は大きくなる。言い換えると、水平方向ではなく、垂直方向に考えよ。
Half or full(半分か全体か)
The fact is, half or full arch does not indicate whether it is a big or small catch. Instead, you just need to notice the width when considering its size. The reason is that full arch shows that the fish swims through the whole of the sonar cone. Half arch shows the opposite.
アークの半分や全体の表示は魚が大型か小型かを表していない。その大きさを検討するときは、代わりに幅に注意する必要がある。と言うのは、アーク全体表示は魚探の超音波コーン(三角形)の端から端へ泳いでいることを示している。アーク半分の表示はその逆の意味だ。
3. Predict the underwater structure
水面下の湖底を予測せよ
There are two important notes for identifying the water structure. First, the transducer scans constantly. The sonar display keeps scrolling even when the sonar is stationary. Second, the depth scale helps you to know the depth of any feature. It shows you the bottom depth under the fish finder. Thus, it may not be the same depth as the feature you just scanned.
湖底の地質を同定するためには、2つの重要な注意事項がある。まず、送受波器のスキャンは一定で、魚探が静止しているときでさえ魚探の画面はスクロールを続けている。2点目は、深度の倍率はどんな特徴の深さを知る上でも役に立つ。それは、魚探下の湖底までの水深を示している。それで、スキャンした特性として同じ水深でない場合がある。
To increase the accuracy of sonar interpretation, here are 5 tips for you
Maintain steady speed
As you find a good spot, use narrow sonar to get more details of the structure
When you are marking the structure, don’t pay attention to the arches
In a large area, you should set a depth alarm. It will tell you when you get to your chosen depth area.
Small depressions can be ideal features for your catch, especially when you are fishing for carps
Knowing the bottom type and harness is also an important key in reading the fish finder and maximizing its functions. The sonar waves will come with different intensity when they hit different bottom types. As the rule of thumb, the more vibrant and contrast the color you see, the harder the bottom seems to be. Specifically, the color can range from brown (soft) to orange (hard).
湖底のタイプを知ることは、魚探を読んでその機能を最大化するために重要である。超音波が異なったタイプの湖底に当たったとき、異なった強度になる。経験から言うと、魚探画面の色が鮮やかで明暗が強くなればなるほど、湖底は硬質になる。具体的には、色は茶色(soft)からオレンジ(hard)色までに及ぶ。
Additionally, hard bottoms will send strong returns. When you see the second sonar return which is parallel to the line at the bottom, you can tell that the bottom is hard. Another clue to know the hardness of the bottom is the thickness of the lines. The thicker the lines are, the harder the bottom is. For soft bottoms, you will see many gaps and dashes on the lines. And if the lines are long, they indicate sand, silt or mud. Otherwise, they are gravel or stones.
As the colors, echo returns, shapes are easy for you to understand, you should know how to interpret the results. First, for best accuracy, set up your fish finder and move slowly around. Most fish finders work best at a lower speed. Unlike reading an English book, you need to read the display from the right to the left. Most recent results will show up from the far right, and vice versa for the oldest results.
When reading the fish finder, you should get familiar with the distance and the proportion from your vessel to the device. As you already have an interesting spot, it is time to zoom on that spot to have a detailed image of what it is like underneath your vessel.
Knowing how to read a fish finder should not be something too complicated. As you spend your time and effort in learning how it works, your fishing trip will be much easier and more enjoyable. And more than just helping you to locate your catches, a fish finder is a helpful tool for navigating your way on the lake. It provides you with the necessary knowledge of water temperature, depth, and structure.
A drift boat is a beautiful example of design and function, an excellent watercraft for fly fishing. It is designed to drift down the river with the current with the rower or guide controlling the speed. Generally, when you row a boat on flat water you face backward and pull the oars to propel the boat forward. In the case of a drift boat the guide or rower faces forward and pulls on the oars to regulate speed and guide the boat through and away from all the potential hazards that a river may offer up, from fallen trees to big rocks and even rapids. Rowing a drift boat down a fast river is a far cry from rowing a rowboat across a placid lake and it takes skill and a great deal of practice.
Drift boats are beautifully designed and evolved from the large, open dories fished in the North Atlantic on the Grand Banks. They were first brought to Oregon by Atlantic fishermen who moved west and modified the deep hulls to wide, flat-bottom hulls for running rivers during the salmon runs, and the McKenzie River designs were born. From these designs the modern drift boat has evolved.
Today anywhere you find big, fast rivers that hold fish, you’ll find drift boats, but it is in the trout rivers of the American West where they truly flourish, given the nature and abundance of the big, fast-moving waters that dominate the western landscape. Drift boats are as ubiquitous in the Rockies as are flats boats in the Florida Keys. Design follows function.
Booking a fly-fishing trip with a guide in a drift boat is one of the great angling experiences for a number of reasons: you’re going to cover a lot of water, you’re going to see a lot of beautiful country that you wouldn’t see otherwise, and you’re going to experience some great and varied fishing over the course of the day depending on the time of year. You may find yourself casting and drifting dry flies along the edge of the river, throwing big streamers at the banks, stopping and getting out and wading certain sections of the river. The drift boat is your access to fishing you could never otherwise get to. ドリフトボートのガイド付きフライフィシングの予約は色々な意味で素晴らしい釣りの経験の1つだ。広い水域をカバーできて、他では見たことのない素晴らしい景色が見られて、そして季節によって、そのコース上で素晴らしく、色々な釣りを経験するのだ。君は川の縁に沿ってドライフライをキャストして、流したり、川岸から大きなストリーマーを流したり、立ち止まってウェーディングしたりしている自分に気が付くかも知れない。ドリフトボートは、他の方法では決して行けない釣り場への君の接近方法なのだ。
RULES FOR DRIFT BOAT FISHING Fishing in a drift boat is really fairly simple if you pay attention to a few rules. There are three stations on a normal drift boat with the guide in the center on the oars, an angler in the forward position and an angler behind the guide in the rear position. ドリフトボート釣りのルール もし2・3のルールに気をつけるなら、ドリフトボートの釣りは本当に簡単である。通常のドリフトボート内には3つの持ち場がある。1つはオールのあるセンターで、ガイドの持ち場だ。舟先に釣人1名、そしてガイドの後ろに別の釣人1名だ。
The forward angler is going to have the advantage as he or she will get to the fish first and they are in the sight line of the guide. The guide will be able to direct the forward angler with greater ease simply because they are in front of them. Determine who is going to fish from the front and for how long, and then switch back and forth over the course of the trip. There will be a number of times when the boat is stopped for either wading a stretch of water or having lunch. It is easy to switch then, never while the boat is moving. 前方の釣り人は最初に魚を釣れる利点があり、ガイドの視線上にある。前方にいるので、ガイドは前方の釣り人を簡単に認識できる。前方で誰がどのくらいの時間釣るかを決定し、ボートを後ろに戻し、釣りコースへ前進させる。直線区間をウェーディングするためや昼食のためにボートを停止すると、どんどん時間が経っていくことでしょう。前後の釣り人を交代させることは簡単だが、ボートが動いているときには、絶対に行うな。
Each angler gets 180 degrees of fishing area with the oars essentially being the dividing line. If you stuck the oars straight out from the boat, the front angler would be able to fish everything in front of them and the rear angler everything behind them. If you cast past that line or allow a drift to go back past that imaginary line, you are poaching as well as creating opportunities for the line to get caught on the oars. 各釣り人には、基本的にオールを境に角度180度の釣り範囲がある。君がもしボートからオールを出したなら、前の釣り人は彼の前方で自由に釣れ、後ろの釣り人も同様だ。もし、通過した方にキャストしたり、後ろへのドリフトをさせたなら、ラインがオールに絡む可能性が高くしているだけでなく、もう一人の釣り人の水面を荒らしていることになる。
Be aware of your cast and where the fly line is going on the back cast. If you’re fishing the left bank, you’re in the rear, and you’re right handed, then you’re going to have to adjust your cast to directly over your head or turn and cast backwards. A normal cast will have that fly whipping right by the guide’s head. Pay attention. The same applies in the front if you’re fishing the right bank and you’re right handed. The guide will always do his best to put you in a good position, but you need to be smart and pay attention as well. Your cast, your responsibility. キャストとバックキャストのとき、フライがどこに飛んでいくかに気をつけよ。もし、君が後ろで右利きなら、オーバーヘッドのキャストやバックキャストを直に調整できるだろう。正常なキャストではガイドの頭のすぐ傍をフライがムチ打つことになる。気をつけて。もし右利きで右側の岸を釣っているなら、舟先においても起こる。通常ガイドは客をベストの位置に持って行こうとするが、君も賢く、そして注意すべきだ。君のキャストは、君の責任なのだから。
Depending on your level of expertise, your guide is going to be communicating with you. Listen to what they say. Sometimes it will be about fishing, sometimes about the natural surroundings and what you’re seeing, and other times it may be about safety. Pay attention. You may learn something or you may survive. Both good reasons to listen. 君の技術レベルに応じて、ガイドは君と話したがるだろう。彼らの話に耳を傾けろ。釣りのことであったり、周辺の自然のことであったり、見える物であったり、または安全についてだったりするであろう。注意せよ。学べば、生きていける。話に耳を傾けることは、両方にとって良いことなのだから。
If the guide is stopping the boat for lunch or to fish a stretch of river, don’t go jumping out of the boat until he tells you to. Allow him or her to do their job and take the precautions necessary to keep all of you safe on the river. Once on the river, there is no turning back. Bring rain gear and dry clothes in a waterproof pack just in case you fall in while wading and/or getting in and out of the boat. It happens. It’s a long trip down the river in wet clothes. Make sure you have the appropriate clothes if the weather is cold. Bring a spare rod and reel outfit in case of an accident. Generally, the guide will have fly-fishing gear, but it’s better to have two than one. もしガイドが停留か川の開けた箇所で釣るために、ボートを止めたなら、彼が君に指示するまでボートから飛び降りるな。彼らの仕事と、川で君らの安全を確保するのに必要な安全策を取らせよう。 一旦水上に出ると、後戻りすることはできない。ウェイディング中やボートから降りている最中に転ぶ場合(fall in)を考え、防水パックに入れて雨具と乾いた衣類を持って行け。もし、そういったことが起こったら、濡れた服を着たままで長い川下りをしなければならないことになる。気温が低いなら、適当な衣服であることを確認しろ。アクシデントのために、スペアロッドとリール一式を持って行け。
You’re going to be wearing waders, as you will probably be getting out to fish. Even if you’re wet wading you’re going to be wearing a wader boot of some sort. Felt is now being outlawed in many parts of the country, but rubber-soled wading shoes are very prevalent now as a result. NOTE: Do not wear rubber-soled wading shoes with studs. Your guide is not going to be happy with studs scratching up the floor of his boat. If you feel the need for extra traction when you get out there are many devices you can slide onto your boot once you’re out of the boat. 釣りに出かけるときは、たぶん君はウェーダーを履くだろう。ウェーディングで濡れたとしても、ある種のウェーディング・ブーツを履くだろう。フェルトは多くの地域で禁止されているが、その結果、ラバーソールの靴が使われている。スパイク付のラバーのウェーディング靴は使うな。ガイドはボートのフロアーをスパイクで傷つけてもらいたくない。もしそこへ出かけたとき、なにか滑り止めが必要なら、ボートから降りるとき、君の長靴へ滑らせることのできるたくさんの装置がある。
SUMMARY A fly-fishing trip down a big, fast, and sometimes tumbling river in a drift boat is a great experience that every angler should have on their bucket list. Floating down some of the iconic and legendary western rivers with a knowledgeable guide will offer you access not only to great scenery, but great fishing as well, in places that many anglers will never get to see. Names like Madison, Yellowstone, Deschutes, Rogue, Green, Henry’s Fork, Snake, and Big Horn are the domain of the drift boat and it is the best way to experience these magnificent rivers. まとめ 大きくて、流れの速く、ときには荒波の川をドリフトボートで下るフライフィッシングの旅は、すべての釣り人にとって、bucket list(死ぬ前にやっておきたいこと)に入れるべき、素晴らしい経験だ。熟練したガイドと象徴的で伝説の西部の川を下ることは、ほとんどの釣り人が見たことのない場所で、素晴らしい風景にアクセスできるだけでなく、また素晴らしい釣りも経験できるのだ。Madison, Yellowstone, Deschutes, Rogue, Green, Henry’s Fork, Snake,そしてBig Hornなどではドリフトボートが主流で、ドリフトボートはそれらの大河を経験するための最高の方法なのだ。
Question: My husband and I are heading west this summer to float the Madison. We’ve only fished out of a drift boat once before, and we kept tangling lines. How can I avoid that — and the ensuing glares from the old man — on this trip?
Answer: When I used to row a drift boat on the Yellowstone, I witnessed many examples of the marital discord you describe. For some reason, husbands always assume that the wife is the problem. I wonder why that is?
When there are two people fishing from a drift boat, there are usually two main problems: tangling lines and the front angler cutting off the rear angler’s casting lane. Here are some easy solutions:
The most surefire way to avoid tangles during casting is abstinence: don’t cast at the same time. Since the front angler usually has his back to his companion, it makes sense for the rear angler to be in charge of holding his cast until the front angler’s line is on the water. This requires a certain amount of forbearance, especially when you’re focused on rising fish or particularly good trout lies. Problems arise when the front angler wants to recast quickly after laying down his line or is inconsistent in the timing of his casts.
It makes more sense, then, to use casting angles to avoid tangles. If both anglers cast at similar angles to the centerline of the boat, their casting paths will not intersect, making tangles nigh impossible. Again, however, this assumes that neither caster is going to alter the angle based on what’s happening on the water. (Something that invariably happens once in awhile.) In general, both anglers should cast between 60 and 45 degrees to the centerline. If the front angler casts too far downstream or the rear angler starts casting directly at the bank (or even upstream), disaster is imminent. Not coincidentally, correct casting angles also protect the guy rowing the boat.
Another reason for the front angler to keep his casts downstream from the boat is to avoid cutting off the rear angler’s path to the bank. If the boat is moving faster than the current, the front angler must pick up his fly before it enters the rear angler’s lane. It can be very frustrating to sit in the back of a drift boat and have nowhere to cast because your partner’s line and fly are in the way. To help himself in this situation, the rear angler can open up more water and extend his drifts by making reach casts that end with his rod tip upstream of the boat.
These are general rules that will work in most situations where the boat is in motion and parallel to the bank, but your best bet is to listen to your guide. He knows where you should cast, and he wants to avoid tangles, as well. Plus, he doesn’t want to be beaned by a split shot or impaled by a size 4 Sofa Pillow.